my first dhal

often when i’m commuting to and from work, i listen to foodie podcasts like good food with evan kleiman, and the splendid table with lynne rossetto kasper. one afternoon, i listened to an indian man very simply explain to kasper what dhal is: a spicy dish typically made from lentils, tomato, onion and various seasonings and spices. “with dhal, the possibilities end with your imagination,” he said, adding that each family has its own special set of ingredients and technique for preparing dhal. dhal comes from the more generic term dal, which describes any of almost 60 kinds of dried beans, peas and lentils. many families in india will eat lentils at every meal with steamed rice or bread–unsurprising considering that india produces and consumes more lentils than any other country.

but despite any practical reasons for having such wide variations on dhal, i am most struck by the idea that each preparation of dhal is like a unique fingerprint indian food culture. i picture a rainbow of different lentils sitting on platters of all different shapes and sizes, each tinted with different color washes from turmeric or curry powder and highlighted by bright flecks of different aromatics, spices and herbs. i can’t resist food that evokes such colorful imagery. so here it is: my first attempt at dhal. i’m pleased to say that sean and i were happy with the result, and that it tasted even better reheated in the two days following at lunch!

1 1/2 c. green lentils
1 1/2 t. curry powder or turmeric, divided
salt, to taste
1 t. cumin
1 T. ghee (clarified butter) or vegetable oil
1 small onion, diced
2 small carrots, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 t. fresh ginger, minced
1 serrano chile, minced
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 t. garam masala
1 c. white rice, cooked, with 1 T. butter melted in
1/2 c. fresh cilantro, chopped
juice of 1 lemon

bring 3 c. water to a boil, and add the lentils. simmer for 18 minutes, until tender. once it’s cooked, stir in 1 t. curry powder and some salt to taste. meanwhile, in a medium-size skillet over medium-high heat, toast the cumin in the oil or clarified butter for 2 or 3 minutes until fragrant. tiny bubbles will form, looking something like this:

turn the heat up slightly and add the onion, carrot and a bit of salt. cook the vegetables until tender and slightly caramelized. add more oil as needed if the spices start sticking to the pan.

add the garlic, ginger, chile, black pepper and garam masala. cook for another 4 or 5 minutes until the flavors have melded. your kitchen will smell warm, perfumy and inviting, with a hint of cinnamon.

scrape every last bit of the cooked aromatics into the lentils, and mix well, adding water as necessary if the lentils have become too dry as they’ve sat. add the cilantro, saving a bit for garnish, and the lemon juice.

to serve, make a bed of rice on a plate. top with dhal and sprinkle with reserved cilantro. you can serve dhal as a side dish to almost anything. this dish was delicious with my crunchy cucumber-yogurt salad, which sean and i ended up pouring over the top. the tangy yogurt and crunch of the vegetables added a nice contrast and cooled our mouths a little. the best part about making dhal is that three days after you make it, you will still smell a hint of cinnamon, cardamom and turmeric when you walk into your house. it will warm you instantly.

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