lemon grass-scented spicy pork soup

spring in chicago is anything but soft and warm. it is often cruel, agitated, windy, dark and wet. on such days, it is necessary to hurry home with a bottle of red wine and a hot meal in mind. last week, as i rushed home from the train on a windy, cold evening, i mentally planned out this hearty, healthy and fragrant soup, starring citrusy lemon grass and ground pork. my sister maddy arrived shortly after i got home. i heated the broth for the noodles and slowly chopped the lemon grass, fresh ginger and various fresh vegetables as maddy sat at the counter. we drank wine and discussed things of monumental importance like perfect pizza crust, friends’ failed dates, how much we like eating bread with olive oil, picking out swim suits and what color dress i’d make her wear at sean’s and my wedding next summer.

later, sean, maddy and i slowly ate the entire pot of soup and drank the rest of the red wine, talking until the tea light on the table almost burned out. it was just what i needed after feeling especially punished by the malicious chicago spring.

note: you can easily make this soup vegetarian by removing the pork or replacing it with firm tofu, and eliminating the fish sauce.

6 cups chicken or vegetable broth
3/4 lb. ground pork
1 T. peanut or vegetable oil
3 c. bok choy (leaves and stalks), chopped into bite-size strips
3 large cloves garlic, chopped
2 T. fresh ginger, minced
1 stalk lemon grass, bruised with the side of a knife and chopped into 1/2-in. pieces
2 carrots, shaved into large curls
3 green onions (green and white part), cut into 1-in. pieces
1 large jalapeño, minced
1 T. fish sauce
1 T. sriracha
1-2 t. sugar
1/3 c. low-sodium soy sauce
1 bag chow mein noodles
1/2 c. fresh cilantro, for garnish

heat the broth in a large stockpot until boiling. meanwhile, heat a large skillet or wok to medium-high, and cook the ground pork until well browned. remove it, and set aside. add a little peanut oil to the pan, and add the bok choy. sweat for a few minutes, then add the garlic, ginger, lemon grass, carrot, green onion and jalapeño. cook the vegetables until they start to soften and caramelize slightly, about 5 minutes. you will smell the ginger, lemon grass and garlic start to release their aromas. return the pork to the skillet, and add the fish sauce, sriracha, sugar and soy sauce; cook everything a few more minutes so the flavors meld. meanwhile, dump the chow mein noodles into the broth, and boil them for 2 minutes. reduce the heat to low, and add the ingredients from the skillet into the stockpot.

stir well to combine.

with a pair of tongs, pile a heap of noodles, meat and vegetables into the bottom of deep bowls. then ladle a few large spoonfuls of the aromatic, nourishing and slightly spicy broth over everything. top with torn cilantro leaves, and serve hot with chopsticks and a large spoon. serves 3-4, generously.